A Well-Oiled Scheme?

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"There's an old phrase about planting grapes for your children and olives for your grandkids -- it's trite but true," says Ash. "With land prices in California … I don't know if everyone that's planting (olives) right now will see a return on investment within this generation. For the smaller producers, it's really a labor of love."

Ash helps her clients differentiate their products, either through distinctive packaging or marketing. Ash also helps them explain their prices. "You have to explain to the consumer, who sees olive oil for $5 at the grocery store, why your product is worth the $20 price tag," she says.

The mainstreaming of artisan oils once relegated to specialty shelves, a push for healthier cooking oils and an increased desire to support local agriculture are all signs that the local olive industry has only begun to blossom.

"California is currently producing 400,000 gallons of extra virgin olive oil. In 2008, we'll surpass French production, and by 2009 we'll hit 1 million gallons of oil," says Patricia Darragh, executive director of the California Olive Oil Council. "We'll still have a long way to go. The bandwagon is not full."

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