Surprisingly, no one entity can be looked to as the definitive source of information for the restaurant industry’s financial impact within the city, but this much is known: A total of 502 businesses within the city limit are licensed to sell any combination of beer, wine and hard liquor to go along with their on-site food service. And although statewide restaurant sales in 2005 are projected to pump $103 billion into the economy, a nearly 6 percent rise over last year, the California Restaurant Association reports that for every dollar a restaurant brings in, restaurants keep a nickel in profits. So clearly, there’s more than economics motivating those whose names are so closely entwined with their professional reputation.
A Changing Palate
Personal growth is what chef and owner Rick Mahan of
The Waterboy, 2000 Capitol Ave., identifies as the driving force behind new restaurant openings. He points to a clientele fleeing the big city lifestyle while remaining desirous of the quality dining experiences it afforded, as well as a local base that is becoming more knowledgeable about food.
“A lot of our regulars have traveled to Europe and eaten in places I draw inspiration from — France, Italy, Spain. Because some of them started coming here before their travels, I’ve (been able to see) them change in what they are able to discern from the menu and ingredients.”
During the winter months, his customers look forward to his cassoulet, cold-weather salads such as frisée with poached egg, bacon, croutons and mustard dressing, as well as his beef pot-a-feu.
Mahan believes the target audience for chefs focused on creating food at a high level is no more than 10 percent of the population of any given city. “People talk about what a great restaurant city New York is or Chicago is. It’s true. But even in cities like those, a very high percentage of the population has no idea what these restaurants do, or are even interested.”
Time will tell if 55 Degrees will draw those hungry for new experiences. “Some people come in because they’re curious, others because they’re used to the big city and have this need for really good food, good service and atmosphere in a restaurant,” acknowledges Dendievel.
At Mason’s, Wang is clearly looking to draw a young, hip crowd with money. “We don’t do the 5 o’clock, half-price dinner, or gigantic portions of three days worth of food,” he states frankly. “We’re going for people who want to come out and have a dining experience with great service, food and wine; people who enjoy nice ambience.” Mason’s, like 55 Degrees, presents its food in cosmopolitan spaces where the design is as important an element as the meal.
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